I love knitwear. Crewnecks, turtlenecks, cardigans, vests - I wear them constantly, to the point that I own countless versions of essentially the same thing. For me, knitwear only needs to fall into two categories: high-gauge pieces for year-round wear, and high-density knits that are genuinely warm in the depths of winter.

High Gauge Crew Neck Knit / High Gauge Knit Cardigan

Starting with the high-gauge knit: in the past, we worked with 12-gauge because it was considered a good all-round thickness. But I could never quite warm to it - I wanted to push the gauge even finer. There were very few factories in Japan capable of doing this, but eventually we found one that could deliver. For spring and summer, we knit at 14-gauge using my favorite cotton in the world, India's finest SUVIN GOLD. For autumn and winter, we go even denser, knitting at 18-gauge with ultra-fine Super 140 wool. The result is a natural luster from the yarn itself and an exceptionally smooth hand feel. This was the first time I felt truly satisfied with the knit.

High Gauge Crew Neck Knit

High Gauge High Neck Knit

That said, even if something is "perfect," wearing it almost every day will inevitably lead to wear - no matter how good the quality. When that happens, you naturally want to replace it the following season - and for me, it's unacceptable if the same product no longer exists. That's often the case with many designer brands, but it's something I strongly dislike. At Graphpaper, we continue making the same pieces season after season so they're always available when you need them. I also believe that people who keep wearing the same things consistently look far cooler than those who constantly change. Rather than chasing variation, I want these pieces to become staples for people with a clearly defined personal style. That's why we continue offering them every season.

In terms of sizing, we range from women's size 00 - roughly equivalent to an SS - through to the oversized F size. In reality, the F size is the most popular. Most brands don't make oversized high-gauge knits, so perhaps that's why people end up coming to Graphpaper. At this scale, they look great on women as well, and if you're going oversized, it's better to commit fully rather than landing somewhere half-hearted.

High Gauge Knit Vest

High Gauge Knit Cardigan

At one point, we considered collaborating with a well-known knitwear brand, but once you factor in restrictions around pricing and sizing, it's simply faster - and more satisfying - to make things ourselves. We've gone through countless updates to reach the current form, adjusting sleeve width, armhole attachment, and other details with each iteration. It's been a continuous process of refinement. I feel we've finally reached a near-ultimate version, so I'll be wearing the AW2020 pieces myself to confirm.

High Density Knit Vest

The other pillar is the high-density knit. We use cotton for spring and summer, but for autumn and winter we knit with multiple strands of delicate merino wool. The defining feature is how tightly packed the stitches are - it's incredibly warm. The structure itself is a basic rib knit, but the sharply defined ribbing I'm after can only be produced at a specific knit factory in Sagae, Yamagata. Other factories simply can't achieve this level of definition or push the density to its limit. In fact, the craftspeople there modify the needles of their automatic knitting machines by hand. That's what allows the stitches to be packed so tightly - but it also means more yarn, more time, and more labor. At Graphpaper's measurements, a single garment takes an entire day to knit. Because of that, expanding the lineup was difficult. By gradually increasing order volumes and building trust, we were finally able to add one more style - a vest - starting from the SS2020 season.

High Density Crew Neck Knit

High Density Crew Neck Knit

We're careful not to use overly special yarns here, because that would drive the price up. These are meant to be worn hard, every day. For both spring/summer and autumn/winter, we select the most stable, widely available yarns that are still suitable for achieving this level of stitch definition, working closely with the craftspeople. Rib knits can easily look dull or overly cozy if done poorly, but when the ribs stand this sharply, the result feels crisp and refined. The extreme density also blocks wind effectively, making the garments remarkably warm.

High Density Cardigan

In short, Graphpaper's autumn/winter knitwear needs nothing more than high-gauge and high-density pieces - crewnecks, cardigans, turtlenecks, and vests. That's enough. They're designed to be worn hard throughout the season, and the same pieces will be available again the following year.